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*NOT for Dog-Aggressive Dogs- Please contact Kari for any interdog aggression issues.

Introduce Smells before Meeting: Rub each dog with an old sock and put the sock in a Ziploc. Bring the sock to the other dog’s home and let him have the sock. Also, give each dog a treat when introducing the sock. Do not put the sock in a crate or other territory that the dog might consider ‘his’. Put the sock in neutral territory like a family room or mud-room (if these areas are where the dog does NOT eat).

Choose a Neutral Location: Introduce the dogs in a neutral location so that your resident dog is less likely to view the newcomer as a territorial intruder. Each dog should be handled by a separate person. With both dogs on leashes, begin the introductions in an area unfamiliar to each, such as a park or a neighbor’s yard. If you frequently walk your resident dog in a nearby park, she may view that area as her territory, too, so choose a less familiar site. If you are adopting your dog
from an animal shelter, you might even bring your resident dog to the local shelter and introduce the two there.

Use Positive Reinforcement: From the first meeting, help both dogs experience "good things" when they’re in each other’s presence. Let them sniff each other on the rear end briefly (2-3 seconds), which is normal canine greeting behavior. As they do, talk to them in a happy, friendly tone of voice; never use a threatening tone. (Don’t allow them to investigate few seconds, get the attention of both dogs and give each a treat in return for obeying a simple command, such as "sit"
or "stay." Take the dogs for a walk and let them sniff and investigate each other at intervals. Continue with the "happy talk," high value treats, and simple commands. Be aware that if you quickly tighten up the leash on either dog, the dog whose leash just got tighter may become tense. It’s important for you, and any other person involved in the introduction, to remain calm and casual throughout the introductions. Of course, if the dogs begin to get to aroused by each other, it may be necessary to pull them apart, however take caution to not tighten the leash prematurely.

Be Aware of Body Postures: One body posture that indicates things are going well is a "playbow." One dog will crouch with her front legs on the ground and her hind end in the air. This is an invitation to play, and a posture that usually elicits friendly behavior from the other dog. Watch carefully for body postures that could indicate an aggressive response, including hair standing up on one dog’s back, teeth-baring, deep growls, a stiff-legged gait, looking sideways at the other
dog, or a prolonged stare. If you see such postures, interrupt the interaction immediately by calmly getting each dog interested in something else. For example, both handlers can call their dogs to them, have them sit or lie down, and reward each with a treat. The dogs’ interest in the treats should prevent the situation from escalating into aggression. Try letting the dogs interact again, but this time for a shorter time period and/or at a greater distance from each other.

Take the Dogs Home: When the dogs seem to be tolerating each other’s presence without fearful or aggressive responses and the investigative greeting behaviors have tapered off, you can take them home. Whether you choose to take them in the same vehicle will depend on their size, how well they ride in the car, how trouble-free the initial introduction has been, and how many dogs are involved.

Be Aware of Resource Guarding: It is important to understand that either dog may exhibit resource guarding in your home. Items that can be guarded include food, toys, beds, entire rooms, owners, etc. If either dog growls, snaps, bares its teeth, at the other dog, then resource guarding may be the cause. Take all toys away before introduction, and give them back as they get along.

Also, do NOT give rawhides or bones when the two are together.